Sewing the Genra Shirt by Daughter Judy Patterns
I have a handful of button downs planned for the coming months and decided to start things off with the Genra Shirt from Daughter Judy Patterns. The pattern is relatively new and already there are a ton of inspiring versions on Instagram. There aren’t as many of the long view, but I immediately envisioned this as both a dress and a duster.
Sizing: On the DG size chart I’m almost exactly a small, but I decided to size down to an extra small due to the generous ease. For the long version, I’d advise against sizing down more than a full size in the hips though. Mine are currently a half inch over the small measurement and I have just enough room in that region when buttoned. Any greater difference and I’d grade the hips to my recommended size.
Modifications: I didn’t change a thing, but will make a couple of tweaks to my next version, including shortening the cuff height by 1/2” and the sleeve placket height by 2.” These mods would allow me to more easily roll the shirt sleeves as the openings are too large to do so.
Finishing: I created a “clean finish” facing and elected not to sew it down, but finished the rest of the garment as instructed. On my next, I’ll use the burrito method on the yoke for that extra special finish.
For reference, I am 5’5” (165 cm) tall. My current b/w/h measurements are 33.5”(85) / 28”(71) / 38.5”(98).
Despite this project presenting a couple of “firsts” for me, namely a cuff-placket combo and a notched collar, it came together easily. I found the instructions generally accessible, but did need the assistance of an online tutorial to attach the placket binding correctly.
My favorite aspect of this garment is its versatility. When worn as a dress, it works with and without a belt; as a duster, it pulls everything together with a touch of drama. If I were to pick a favorite detail, it’s the perfectly curved hemline with generous side slits.
I now have two more versions in the queue: a long view in black poplin (because obviously) and a short view in a striped Kaffe cotton.
Thanks for this detailed pattern review. Your shirt is everything a shirt should be! I especially appreciate the details on measurements, since mine are similar to yours. Good to see a version with the front facing not stitched down, thanks for featuring that. I find topstitching the facing often results in a poor collar roll and wrinkles. I have subscribed!