32 Comments
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Nicole's avatar

I really appreciate your analysis of the patterns. I really avoid muslin making and rather research other makers and measure my body against the pattern and finished garment measurements. In my embarrassing amount of hours spent looking at makers projects on IG - I have wondered if those who do a lot of modifications end up with a garment that has lost some of the intended design. I’ve noticed with some makers, it’s hard to tell the difference between patterns and rather the pants look very much like the maker’s personal style. That being said- as you mentioned some alterations are critical for fit. A bit of an art and science. Thank you!

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Theresa's avatar

Yes—agree! I’ve become more open to a variety of fits the more I sew. When I first started making clothes I’d make all my pants high waisted and over-fitted (probably just excited about having a newfound control over my wardrobe). Now I try to embrace the intended designs.

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Miss Henstra's avatar

That’s why I am trying top down center out fitting, which respects the intended ease and shape more it seems . I followed the videos by The Crooked Hem on youtube.

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Asmita Hulyalkar's avatar

This is great! Thank you for this--its going to be super useful for me as I begin to sew a few of these. I have a quick question re the side view of all of the pants except Helene . So, the front waist sits lower than where the back waist sits--is this on purpose? the way they are to fit? or by choice? I may not very little about pants making so I hope the question makes sense. Thanks.

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Theresa's avatar

Glad it’ll be of use! Re side views: I think it’s a combination of the pants design + my anatomy/posture. I’ve got a bit of a swayback happening for starters. One thing I know for certain, the Worship Jeans are designed with a pitched waist, so they’re supposed to dip in the front!

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Marla Molinary's avatar

Thanks ! This is helpful and interesting. I hope to challenge myself with pants sewing this year , this inspires me !

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Kataz Trophe's avatar

im six three, 210, all my pants need altering for length & hips . i haven't attempted making jean style in eons

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Beth Smith's avatar

This is really helpful! I'm working on my me-made wardrobe this year and have a few of these pants bookmarked. (I also really dislike making toiles!) <3

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Theresa's avatar

Excellent. Good luck with your projects!

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Clare Testoni's avatar

This is so helpful. I’d love to know what kind of machine you sew on? I’m just starting to sew denim and I’m wanting to upgrade slightly.

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Theresa's avatar

I use a Janome HD3000 which I really like and sews denim pretty well overall. Unsure how it would perform on weights 14oz or over though.

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Clare Testoni's avatar

So useful! Thank you.

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Tina's avatar

Such a great post, thank you! I'm of a similar shape and size and I don't think I look this good in any trousers, me-made or rtw. Interesting 😀 They all seem so well-fitting on you.

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Theresa's avatar

Thank you! I’ve worn these a bit and feel they’ve definitely conformed to my body at this point 😅

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Amy Wilke's avatar

So interesting!! Thank you for sharing!

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Theresa's avatar

Happy to share!

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Katie's avatar

This is sooo helpful, thank you for your thoughtful writeup! I started sewing about 9 months ago and haven't yet attempted pants with a fly because every product photo shows a nearly-flat booty and I have just about the same measurements/waist-down shape as you. I'd love to start with a pattern that doesn't require a major butt overhaul right out the gate! Appreciate it :)

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Theresa's avatar

Glad is was useful! I agree it's always nice to stumble upon someone with similar measurements!

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Darcy's avatar

Ohhh, we are super similar size/shape and I've been curious about the worship jeans so this sibsuper helpful!

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Theresa's avatar

Oh goody! :)

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Judith Gourdie's avatar

Oooo these patterns are all on my one day list. I struggle with my measurements and then the suggested size never seeming to be in alignment in real life. I almost always end up having to recut the fabric something like 2 sizes smaller which just makes me feel really frustrated to sew clothes for myself at all. I did the Pomona pants for my first pair of adult pants and measured at like a 14. I ended up going down to a 10 by the time I was finished. I’m also toile averse so this was an exercise in frustration.

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Traci Snider's avatar

This content is so fantastic and helpful, I wish we all could be near each other in a sewing commune to share makes and fits and information! Next best thing is the very generous content from makers like you!

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Theresa's avatar

Thank you for the feedback 😊 And I agree it would be nice is everyone was close by!

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Jane's avatar

Your patience is staggering.

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Ash's avatar

Absolutely thrilled to read through your analysis of these patterns, as someone who rarely toiles, struggles with pants and flat patterns, and has almost your exact measurements. This is great! Thank you

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Theresa's avatar

Oh good! So glad it’s helpful:)

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Silje Kristensen's avatar

Such a helpful summary! Thank you for taking the time to write this up.

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Theresa's avatar

🫶

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Amelia Arvesen's avatar

This is so incredibly helpful! I have yet to sew hard, denim pants (so scared!) and your post is helping me narrow down patterns for my first pair.

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Theresa's avatar

I like to think of hard pants as a long series of smell steps. Take it slowly—you can do it!!

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